Adeam Resort 2022

Though many who grew up in the early aughts protest, Y2K fashion has officially been revived. Just a quick scroll through TikTok will show you that Gen-Z has embraced the high-gloss look resplendent with rhinestones, low-rises, and lots and lots of skin. For Resort 2022, Adeam designer Hanako Maeda joined the pack of designers looking to put their own spin on the trend, but in a way that felt true to her tasteful emerging label. “When you look at TikTok or the next generation, it’s too literal an interpretation for me,” she said. “So I wanted to do it in a way that feels more acceptable to people who were teenagers or adults at the time.”

She was inspired by her own wardrobe as a teenager growing up in Azabu, Tokyo, when she listened to grunge and punk music and wore a uniform to school. As a result of this personal backstory, you’d have to really squint to find recognizable Y2K hallmarks, though that’s likely to appeal to a wider range of customers than a literal interpretation. In the first look, she reimagined a uniform cardigan and flannel pants as a convertible knit top with a removable wide collar and cuffs, with pants made of plissé gingham chiffon. Maeda also says that she used to wear oversized shirts as dresses in the era; that look is shown here as shirt dresses and t-shirt dresses with tie details along the waist. Among the most obvious nods to the early aughts are the trompe l’oeil double waistbands, placed on flowing midi-skirts and denim minis, which mimic a teenage boy’s sagging jeans in a way that will appeal to the refined Adeam customer.

Some references are more ’90s, like the dress with a plissé gingham skirt and a white tie on the waist, and a top that resembles a t-shirt over a flannel shirt. The latter is distinctly feminine and is paired with sensible white pants and slip-on loafers, suggesting, as the rest of the collection does, that the punk grew up and got a penthouse on the Upper East Side.

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