Roberto Cavalli Spring 2022 Menswear

Fausto Puglisi at Roberto Cavalli seems a fine match: Puglisi the Sicilian possesses the same potent sincerity as Cavalli the Florentine, the same inclination towards impact, sexuality, and display. With this first menswear collection for the house, Puglisi came out fighting, casting Mike Tyson for the collection video and campaign to come, and in the possession of a distinct strategy with which to power this faltering house’s fortunes back into the big leagues.

Down the Zoom, talking as ever a mile a minute and waving the cigarette he’d left his studio to smoke when he saw I was puffing merrily away from my much-abused Zoom armchair, Puglisi said: “This is a great moment, and a great opportunity for Roberto Cavalli, because the focus has shifted and people are becoming obsessed with early 2000s style: Britney Spears, Mariah, Destiny’s Child, J.Lo. And Cavalli was an important part of that. Dolce & Gabbana, Cavalli, Tom Ford for Gucci—I used to live in the U.S. at the time and I remember it well.”

With this collection Puglisi worked by leaning away from the Riviera aspects of the house’s masculine codes—which Cavalli honed while running his boutique, Limbo, in Saint-Tropez, France—to instead lean, pragmatically, into contemporary separates that could provide a knockout punch to any outfit without demanding to be part of a full look. He said that one inspiration for this had been the leopard-print sweatpants he saw being worn by Andy, the husband of my colleague Nicole Phelps, on her Instagram: Andy Baker, fashion shaper.

This Baker approach, as it should now be formally named, worked well in a collection that was packed with selectively wearable oomph. From the magenta silk boxer shorts and shirt combos to denim featuring Puglisi’s leopard stars and zebra stripes and one gorgeous all-zebra T-shirt, there was plenty here that brought the Cavalli message without making irrelevant noise. Cavalli is back in the room, menswear wise.

Read More

Written by 

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *