There’s no denying it: The Y2K revival is officially upon us. We’re seeing it on the top runways, in the men’s collection’s, and in contemporary lines like Derek Lam 10 Crosby (though anyone in downtown New York would attest that kids have been dressing this way for years). Halter tops, low-slung cargoes, and micro-minis all registered as surprises in Lam’s pre-fall lineup, but what will set them apart on the shop floor next summer is their emphasis on utility and function. A cropped lamé blouse and slouchy army pants loosely recalled a circa spring 2002 Balenciaga collection (beloved for its contrast of glittery tops and ripstop trousers), while a tiered cocktail dress in the same glossy material came with the comfy, adjustable ruching of 2022.
Many DL10C fans will be swayed instead by the collection’s juicy palette and tropical prints, which referenced the ever-popular Ibiza. When Lam’s team designed the clothes several months ago, they pictured their customer wearing them on the actual island. If international travel remains difficult this year, 2020 and 2021 proved the power of escapist dressing wherever you are. On that note, Lam’s best idea—for holiday or at home—was the mix of full, drop-waist midi skirts and ribbed cardigans, each unzipped to the sternum and the skimming past the hips.