Why it’s high time for slow travel in Gstaad

Laid-back, low-key, leisurely, languorous. There are many ways to describe the summer lifestyle in Gstaad, a characterful village tucked away in the Bernese Alps that encourages visitors to come up and slow down. The region was once described as “the last paradise in a crazy world” by actress and honorary resident Julie Andrews, who has owned a home here for over 50 years. Indeed, it’s a place that seems made for those looking to fine-tune the art of slow travel — a softer, more considered form of travel that’s been growing in popularity in recent years. Slow travel requires a visitor to take time to appreciate the essence of a destination — choosing experiences that connect to its communities, and activities that allow immersion in its nature. 

The village of Gstaad, in the heart of Switzerland’s picturesque Saanen region, is perfectly primed for these types of getaways. Here, summer haze drifts slowly over five finger-like valleys — formed by God’s handprint, as the local legend goes, with Gstaad in the palm. Snow-dusted mountaintops rise up to meet pure blue skies, and waterfalls spill down sheer granite cliffs into pastures scattered with flower-festooned chalets and old farmhouses.

Long renowned as a top wellness destination, Gstaad was an early favourite of British Alpinists, who were drawn in by the mountain air and outdoor lifestyle. Today, the village remains a choice spot for those seeking a much-needed mid-year pause, opting for slower, softer travel. 

Begin by easing yourself into the area’s stunning natural surroundings with a gentle hike. Follow the Swiss cows up to the sun-warmed slopes, where a network of 185 miles of easily accessible trails and paths meander through lush green pastures and shady forests while, wherever you go, cowbells provide the soundtrack.

For a smoother journey, consider heading out on two wheels to explore the 95 miles of bike trails that loop around the region. Hiring an e-bike allows you to relax into the surroundings even on uphill tracks, the motor helping to ease effort levels. For the most scenic route, follow the trail from Gstaad to the traditional village of Lauenen and around its namesake lake, a wonderfully picturesque spot framed by forests. Stop to take a boat out, or wade in for a dip in its cool, calming waters. Indeed, being around ‘blue space’ has been known to have similar wellness benefits to ‘green space’, resulting in decreased feelings of stress and negativity. 

A similarly restorative route takes in Lake Arnen, in the shadow of Les Diablerets. Spend some time fishing or stand-up paddleboarding, before pedalling on to the Rössli restaurant in nearby Feutersoey for a long and languorous meal in its flower-covered garden. Set within a centuries-old chalet, this family-run inn puts a gourmet spin on hearty classics such as wiener schnitzel and whole royal pigeon. Don’t miss the trout meunière, a recipe that’s been passed down through generations and is served with boiled potatoes and spinach.

Continue your sojourn in the slow lane at one of Gstaad’s Alpine spas. Situated just off the cobbled, car-free promenade, the family-owned luxury hotel Le Grand Bellevue started life as a health spa in 1912. Guests still seek sanctuary in its vast wellness centre, which is the largest in the region. Whether staying in one of the hotel’s large, opulent rooms, or simply visiting for the day, opportunities abound to soak in a bubbling hot tub, cleanse yourself in the salt inhalation grotto and breathe in local botanicals in the herbal or hay sauna — before cooling off in the ice fountain.

However, while summer signals slower, sun-filled days for many, it’s all systems go for the region’s farmers. There are 340 working farms and around 11,000 cows in the region and, from late spring, the prized herds ascend to the high pastures to graze on grass and Alpine herbs. Traditionally the farmers sleep up here in their summer farmsteads, perched on the slopes, and make cheese from the grass-rich unpasteurised milk on a wood fire every morning. For the best taste of this lcoal speciality, head to one of the huge fondue caquelon (pots) that are dotted throughout the region, where you can feast on hot cheese thanks to a ‘fondue backpack’ from a local dairy. Or, amble along the one-hour Cheese Trail from Berghaus Wispile to Alp Bodme, where you can tour the cheese dairy, sample its produce and pet the animals in the neighbouring barn. 

To taste this local produce in hearty regional dishes, visit one of Gstaad’s many low-key mountain restaurants. Top picks include Refuge l’Espace, a rustic hut on Glacier 3000 where visitors can take a seat on the large sun-splashed deck under the looming rock of the Quille du Diable, while keeping watch for bearded vultures. Graze on air-dried local meats and wafer-thin curls of the area’s traditional cheese, Berner Hobelkäse AOC, washed down with a glass of fresh and floral ‘petite arvine’. Indeed, the fragrant wines of the area are one of Switzerland’s best-kept secrets. 

Visit as summer draws to an end and you may witness the Gstaad Züglete, the annual August cattle drive, when the cows and bulls are resplendent with headdresses and huge cowbells as they are led back down to spend winter in the valley. 

Three slow hikes in Gstaad

1. Wispile to Lake Lauenen
Catch the cable car up to Wispile — a mountain just south of the village of Gstaad — then follow this rewarding three-hour trail along the ridge, through high meadows and down into shady forests, before finally reaching the gleaming shores of Lake Lauenen. 

2. Horneggli Panorama Trail 
Incredible views of the jagged Bernese Alps await on this high-altitude hike. Start in Zweisimmen and take the cable car up the Rinderberg, then follow the trail signs to Hornberg along the Gandlouenen Ridge. Hop on the Horneggli chairlift back to Schönried, from which it’s less than 15 minutes on the bus back to Gstaad.

3. Lauenen to the Fondue Caquelon
Armed with a fondue backpack kit from one of the many local dairies, follow the trail from sleepy Lauenen through the forest to an oversized caquelon (fondue pot) — essentially a pot-shaped table and bench — to fire up your kit. Feast on bubbling cheese as you gaze over the Geltenschutz and Tungelschutz waterfalls.